A Budget Rambler Discovers the Charms of Southern Nicaragua by Various Travel Authors on Creators.com

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A Budget Rambler Discovers the Charms of Southern Nicaragua

By Stuart Wasserman

The first thing I noticed when I visited the southern region of Nicaragua — not far above the border with Costa Rica — was the large number of European travelers, and no wonder. Many European travelers are extending their tours beyond Costa Rica for short jaunts to the colonial city of Granada and the coastal town of San Juan del Sur.

Granada's town center has a European feel with its cobblestone streets and 18th- and 19th-century architecture. The city also hosts an International Poetry Festival each February with readings in historic churches and outdoor in the main square next to the massive neo-classical cathedral. Just south of the square night life centers on Calle La Calzada, a renovated pedestrian avenue built five years ago with money donated by Granada's sister city, Granada, Spain. Visitor comfort has increased dramatically over the last five years as several historic homes have been converted into four-star hotels and B&Bs.

Granada resembles the colonial cities of Mexico with a grand cathedral on a big plaza, ornate iron benches and lots of outdoor life, especially on Sunday afternoons.

There are several good dining option on the Calle, such as Three Finger Jimmy's, which is owned by a former New Orleans resident. Barbecue is the specialty here.

The port of San Juan del Sur was brought to American attention when Mark Twain visited. The celebrated author was leaving San Francisco after his early years of journalism in California and was heading to Europe, an experience that would later become the basis for "Innocents Abroad." Twain passed through San Juan del Sur in 1886, when it was a thriving little port of entry for passage between San Francisco and New Orleans or New York. The journey across Nicaragua took place on rivers and a lake the size of New York state called Lake Cocibolca. This was still decades before the construction of the Panama Canal.

Mark and Stacey Stang, visiting from Minneapolis, said their favorite meal was at El Zaguan, a popular restaurant located near the cathedral.

"I would drive two hours from San Juan del Sur just to eat there again," Stacey said. "The steak was one of the best I've ever had in my life."

I found a delightful breakfast spot called the Nica Buffet, whose friendly owner from the Netherlands welcomes each of his guests. His cooks prepare sumptuous western omelets with crunchy fresh vegetables.

Budget-minded travelers would be happy with Cocibolca, a hotel right on the Calzada that offers clean private clean rooms with a private bath, a balcony and a view for $15 a night. A range of appealing hotels with restful interior courtyards offer rooms at the $50 or $60 range.

The first day there I hiked the nearby Mombacho Volcano and went zip-lining. The second day I toured small towns such as San Juan de Oriente where artists produce ceramic arts from their homes and nurture wonderful verdant gardens. Then it was onto to Masaya Volcano, which offers incredible views into the cone of the still-active volcano. The last stop of the day was my favorite: Laguna de Apoyo, which turned out to be a great natural spot for swimming. The water is silky clean and the natural landscape is beautiful. Overnight options include hostels such as the Monkey Hut, which offers private rooms for $25 or dorm rooms for $12.

For those looking to splurge, a good choice is the Jicaro Resort, located on one of the isles in Lake Nicaragua, a 10-minute boat ride from Granada.

The resort is small with just nine cabins built of exquisite dark wood. Here one can kayak around the islands or practice yoga on a wooden platform with the Volcano Mombacho in full view.

Today, this Southern coastal town is a popular spot especially for young international backpackers who are drawn to Maderas Beach just to the north of San Juan del Sur or Remanso Beach to the south. There are plenty of hostels in this small town and waterfront restaurants such as El Timon that offer happy-hour specials for $1 or $2. San Juan del Sur sits on a crescent bay with wonderful sunsets.

American Randy Harvey gets glowing reviews for his B&B just outside of town called Casa del Soul. It offers peace, quiet and quite a view, but previous guests mostly rave about Randy's deft assistance for planning daily activities ranging from hiking and surfing to horseback riding and deep-sea fishing. He hands guests cell phones for daily use upon their arrival.

Several of the larger hostels in town organize transportation to the beaches. One morning I found myself in the back of a military-looking truck with 10 people, mostly young travelers from Europe and Australia whose surfboards were tied to the roof of the vehicle. Our destination was Maderas Beach. A round-trip with a 10 a.m. departure and 4 p.m. return costs $5. Three rustic restaurants are available on the beach.

Seven Miles to the south of San Juan del Sur lies Remanso Beach — a good place for swimming. The Remanso Bar and Grill serves fabulous seafood and chicken dishes since the chef came here with previous experience at two of the top restaurants in San Juan del Sur. The expansive one-story hotel has 14 rooms available for overnight guests.

Back in San Juan del Sur the big splurge is the hotel up the hill with the stellar view of the bay aptly named Pelican Eyes. Guests have the option of staying in rooms or well-appointed condos. Prices start at $180.

My favorite meal in town was at the El Colibri, which features Indian food. The restaurant has garden seating. I was told to try the sangria, and I'm glad I did. My chicken curry dish was rich with flavor.

Mark Twain moved quickly through Nicaragua. I took my time. But no matter how much time visitors spend in southern Nicaragua, they will find friendly and welcoming people in a united country at peace.

WHEN YOU GO

From Managua: Iskra Travel transports travelers from the International Airport to San Juan del Sur or Granda. The cost $40 a person; a taxi charges $80 for a car load. "All of my guests use them," says Casa del Soul owner Randy Harvey: www.iskratravel.com.

Casa del Soul: www.casadelsoul.info or 011-505-8632-9646

Pelican Eyes Hotel and Resort offers ocean-view cabins, infinity pools and a restaurant: www.pelicaneyesresort.com or 805-284-9447.

El Colibri: 011-505-8863-8612

Granada:

Jicaro Island Ecolodge: www.cayugaonline.com or 505-2558-7702

I traveled with ORO Travel: www.orotravel.com or 505-2552-4568. I learned about them from a U.S. based outdoor tourism company called Wildlands Travel: www.wildland.com or 800-345-4453

Stuart Wasserman is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.